Where Time Stands Still: Discovering the Theaters of Umm Qais

Irbid, Sept. 16 (Petra) — High on a ridge overlooking Lake Tiberias, the Golan Heights and northern Palestine, Umm Qais is more than an archaeological site; it is a journey through layers of history that continue to enchant visitors.

Once part of the Roman Decapolis, the city remains one of Jordan’s most breathtaking destinations, where basalt ruins whisper the stories of civilizations long gone.

At the heart of this heritage lie two grand theaters western and northern that embody the artistry and engineering genius of the Roman world.

“The two theaters were completed in the latter half of the second century AD, serving as venues for public celebrations and theatrical performances,” explained Aysar Al-Radaydeh, head of the Bani Kenanah Antiquities Department.

The western theater, perched dramatically on the edge of the city’s acropolis, is carved from black basalt and could seat about 3,000 spectators. Even today, its intricate details are remarkably preserved, a testament to ancient craftsmanship. The northern theater, with a capacity of around 5,000, remains largely hidden beneath rubble an archaeological puzzle waiting to be fully revealed.

Roman ingenuity is evident in their design. Built in a semicircular form, the terraces ensured that every word spoken on stage carried effortlessly through the crowd without the need for amplification.

While many believe excavations began in the early 20th century, Al-Radaydeh noted that work actually started in the 1960s and 1970s, led by foreign missions in partnership with Jordan’s Department of Antiquities. Restoration followed in the late 20th century, aiming to conserve their features and return them to the cultural and tourism map of Umm Qais.

For heritage researcher Dr. Ma’n Shtanawi, standing among these ruins is nothing short of time travel. “From the terraces, you feel history unfolding before your eyes,” he said. “The theaters are living memory, echoing the civilizations that thrived here.”

But the journey in Umm Qais extends far beyond the theaters. Visitors wander along Roman colonnaded streets, explore Byzantine churches and Ottoman houses, and discover treasures in the archaeological museum. The panoramic views alone are worth the trip sunsets over the Jordan Valley cast the ancient stones in hues of gold and amber.

Equally vibrant is the living culture that thrives alongside the ruins. Local artisan Hiyam Tawalbeh said cultural festivals and performances at the theaters give craftspeople a chance to showcase traditional products. “Visitors love taking home handmade pieces that embody the spirit of Umm Qais,” she said, noting that such events support families and sustain heritage industries.

Today, the Ministry of Tourism and the Department of Antiquities are working to further develop infrastructure and promote Umm Qais internationally, positioning it as a cornerstone of cultural tourism in northern Jordan.

Whether drawn by history, scenery, or local traditions, travelers to Umm Qais find themselves immersed in a city where past and present meet an ancient stage still alive with stories.

//Petra// AA
16/09/2025 11:07:06